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Author: Alex and Lani

Fast Food Joint

Fast Food Joint

Overall:four-and-a-half-cheerios

33099095_10156929524393268_9081945957867716608_nFast Food Joint is located right next to the road with a small creek between the crag and the road. Its not well known so there is almost never anyone there. Its a great place to take beginners or kids if you don’t want to fight for a spot at the School Room. There aren’t any hard routes, the most difficult being a 5.10b.

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners. Doug, who owns that land, has been really kind to climbers over years and cares a lot about the area.

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Routes: four-cheerios

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes range from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try on. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. In that case, you will not want to climb that route. We were just there (May 2018 and August 2018) and it was  completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness, see Tips for Ages Under 4.

Our 6 year old, 5 year old and 4 year old all topped out on the 5.6 Roadside Coulier and our other kids wen up the easier scrambling start of it. Those kids also topped out on the 5.5 to its left. Then our 4 year old was the only one to make it up the 5.7 Bacon, Bacon, Bacon. We were proud of her for doing it but it was a boring belay… she stopped every two moves to yell ‘Chalk Power’ and chalk up her hands more, then howl for wolf power and demand that the belayer howl, demand that other people knowledge her progress, giggle and shake her booty and then proceed….

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

This area is NOT included in the Maple Canyon guidebook.

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 Approach: five-cheerios

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

33156247_10156929524533268_4561801948969304064_n

Landing: four-and-a-half-cheerios

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area. It could be an issue for a young baby just learning to walk but a play pen would fit in certain spots of the area.

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 39735799_10157190709513268_4050329338959101952_n 39752079_10157190708198268_8320182294732079104_n

Traffic: five-cheerios

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun: five-cheerios

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

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Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. Kids can drown in almost no water. If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area.

Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock and so you will have to decide how you want to mitigate the risk of loose rock fall.

Fast Food Joint

Fast Food Joint

 

Overall: four-and-a-half-cheerios

33099095_10156929524393268_9081945957867716608_nFast Food Joint is located right next to the road with a small creek between the crag and the road. Its not well known so there is almost never anyone there. Its a great place to take beginners or kids if you don’t want to fight for a spot at the School Room. There aren’t any hard routes, the most difficult being a 5.10b.

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners. 

Routes: four-cheerios

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes ranges from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. We were just there (May 2018) and it was completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness , see Tips for Ages Under 4.

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

112781472_medium_1494314544 112782073_medium_1494314586

 Approach: five-cheerios

33156247_10156929524533268_4561801948969304064_n

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

Landing: four-and-a-half-cheerios

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area and a baby just learning to walk could have issues. A play pen or something similar is likely to fit.

33020276_10156929524428268_7638657408188809216_n 33060365_10156929524493268_2165365387854610432_n   

Traffic: five-cheerios

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun: five-cheerios

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers in that area. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. A child can drown in almost no water.

If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area. 

Remember Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock so take the necessary precautions to prevent loose rock fall.

 

 

The Wave Wall

The Wave Wall

Overall: three-and-a-half-cheerios

Its on the road which can be very dangerous for toddlers but perhaps doable for an infant or older kid. There are no kid climbs.

Pic27

Routes: two-and-a-half-cheerios

There are only a few routes here.

You can read more about the area at Mountain Project

 Approach: five-cheerios

None.

Landing: five-cheerios

Flat but no room to run and play around because of the busy canyon road.

Climbing season is here!

Climbing season is here!

My family has had fun gym-climbing this winter but its time to move outdoors! Start thinking about family climbing trips and checkout our ‘Comprehensive Guide to Climbing with Kids.’ We provide information about climbing areas that would be of interest to parents – rating them from 1 to 5. We include information that is hard to find elsewhere but particularly useful to parents – such as potential dangers or difficulties in taking a kid to that area or extra fun that they might have there. We want you be informed before you take your next trip so it doesn’t end up going wrong. The site also has gear reviews and climbing tips for families.

Log Canyon

Log Canyon

Close to Maple Canyon, it is the less frequented and less developed area.  The rock there is not as absurdly amazing as is Maple rock, but if it were a canyon far from Maple Canyon it would be a very popular destination.  The camping here is free, but undeveloped so be prepared to dig a few holes.  There are two developed areas but they have some fun climbs.  And though it is not very developed, the canyon houses one of the best kids’ routes in the state.  This canyon is worth a visit at least once, if not more.  This page does not follow the typical format because the area is so undeveloped.

School House Rock –

Overall: four-cheerios

This is a fantastic area for beginners and most definitely children. In fact, it arguably has one of the best kid climbs I have ever seen. If you are looking for a place for your first lead or your kids first lead, this is the place.

This is a picture of a four year old feeling pretty proud of herself at the bottom of the climb.

Routes:four-cheerios

__, 5.0,might be the best kid climb in Utah. From its anchors 100 ft up, our 4 year old yelled, “this is a good kid climb”. That’s saying something.

There are other easy climbs in this area and a few intermediate 5.10 climbs to keep the adults entertained as well. The 10s felt a little stiff when I climbed them, but all the hard stuff is at the bottom as in just the first few moves) and then it mellows out significantly for the length of the climb.  That said, the hard stuff was pretty fun.

You can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Nothing yet from Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guidebook pgs. _____ (Fill this out!)

Approach:five-cheerios

Zero approach. None. You can belay from your car.

Landing:five-cheerios

Large, perfect, and flat.

Traffic:five-cheerios

We saw two cars and they weren’t climbers the entire day we were there. There were no other climbers the two days we camped there.

Potential Dangers:four-cheerios

You are right next to the road so you need to watch your kids and make sure they are safe when any possible cars come by.

Other Activities:four-cheerios

Camping:

There are lots of sites the entire way up the canyon. Two spots are maybe a two-minutes walk to School House Rock. The camping is free and the sites are beautiful but they only have a fire pit. No bathrooms or water in the canyon.

Cows:20160912_122649

Are kids loved having cows pass by the crag and campsite. I don’t know if they are normally there or not or if it was a freak accident that they got out.

Four-wheeling:

There is a 34-mile ATV trail loop. It ends in Maple Canyon. We saw quite a bit of families on these, You can read more about it here.

Dirt Bike:

Difficulty: 1 out of 5. 20+ miles. The elevation changes from 6200 to 9800.20160912_173713

Scenic Drive:

You can follow the dirt road to the top of the canyon which is gorgeous. If you take a left at the fork at the top you can make it all the way to the top of Maple but the road will be pretty gnarly, 4X4 is a must.

See this Canyon on our Map

 

Rock Canyon: The Kitchen

Rock Canyon: The Kitchen

Overall:three-and-a-half-cheerios

Its a high frequented area that is fun to try but I wouldn’t consider it a repeat. There is a 5.4 that you could lead TR or set up top roped for your child but that would be the only kid friendly climb and you are going to need to set up a 15-18 ft extension off the anchors.

Routes: three-cheerios

There are a lot of trad routes here but there isn’t a lot of variety and the holds are pretty greased up nowadays. You can top rope basically all of the climbs as well.

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

A note for finding beta on the area – Provo is full of college kids that are cheap on money, but whenever they aren’t studying, rich with time. The Mountain Project as a wiki is the best beta I can find for the canyon, even beyond a guide book. A lot of climbing areas are difficult to navigate simply by using Mountain Project, but Rock Canyon has good information.

Approach: four-cheerios

Time

You are not going to get a better approach in Rock Canyon but it will still take you some time depending on the age of your kids. Maybe 15 minutes.

Difficulty

Any age can do it, just some slower than others. Normal, slightly inclined, trail.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing:five-cheerios

Perfect.

Traffic:three-cheerios

There are often climbers there. Its one of the more frequented spots, probably because of the access but also because of the TR climbs available as well as the fact that you can top rope the climbs.

Extra Kid Fun:three-cheerios

Nothing extra fun for the kids at this spot.

Potential Dangers:five-cheerios

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Rock Canyon: The Job Site

Rock Canyon: The Job Site

Overall:four-cheerios

This area does have a large variety of climbs for really everybody but they aren’t really all in the same area. They are spread out. So if you want you kids to climb the 5.4 you really only have a 5.7 and 5.8 right next to you.

Routes:five-cheerios

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

A note for finding beta on the area – Provo is full of college kids that are cheap on money, but whenever they aren’t studying, rich with time. The Mountain Project as a wiki is the best beta I can find for the canyon, even beyond a guide book. A lot of climbing areas are difficult to navigate simply by using Mountain Project, but Rock Canyon has good information.

Approach: three-and-a-half-cheerios

Time

It is one of the closer areas, like the kitchen, in Rock Canyon. It will probably take 15 minutes depending on your kids.

Difficulty

Moving off the main trail towards the crag is more steep and might require holding your kids hand and helping them.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing: four-cheerios

Traffic:four-and-a-half-cheerios

You are likely to get the route you want.

Extra Kid Fun:four-cheerios

There is a very small cave nearby that you will see as you hiking up there. It can be a fun detour for the kids to see. I’m sure they will ask. But thats on the walk and not at the crag.

Potential Dangers:five-cheerios

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Maple Canyon: Rock Island

Maple Canyon: Rock Island

Overall:four-cheerios

The convenience of this area is amazing. Its perfect for if you little one fell asleep in the car because you basically can belay from a few feet away, just leave the windows down or doors open.

Routes: three-and-a-half-cheerios

The routes here are on the lamer side. Short and not super interesting but there is a variety of intermediate climbing or warm-ups for an adult.

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:five-cheerios

It can’t be beat. No approach. Just park and you are there.

Landing:five-cheerios

Perfect level ground.

Traffic:five-cheerios

These routes are not high in demand so if you are looking for convenience this is the spot.

Extra Kid Fun: three-cheerios

Nothing extra fun here.

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

Only the road. Since this is farther up in the campground area you won’t have cars zooming past and not many driving up there as it is but still watch your kids because we don’t want any accidents.

Maple Canyon: The Orangutan Wall

Maple Canyon: The Orangutan Wall

Overall:four-cheerios

The Schoolroom is a great destination for climbing with kids.  Honestly, one of the best.  There are climbs for kids, beginners and adults.  The landing is perfect, and it is easy to get to.  It can get busy here, but every time I have come to this area, there are always climbs available.  If you have kids and want to get them on a wall, this area should be at the top of your list.

Routes: five-cheerios

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach: 

Time

This is just past Billy the Kid Wall and won’t take more than 10 minutes even with the tiniest.

Difficulty

Flat and level trail.

Danger

Not really dangerous, but a few years back our then two year old did stumble at the beginning of the hike. She tumbled down a hill that could have potentially hurt her pretty bad. She was fine, but a little shaken up.  You see those videos of miraculous dad saves on YouTube.  That wasn’t me.  I would say, not dangerous, but hold the littles hands at the beginning.

Landing: three-and-a-half-cheerios

There is an upper and lower section of the Orangutan Wall. The upper section is a few feet higher than the lower on a sort of island that can be steep to get up. While the landing is great in the upper area and great in the lower area the fact that there are two with a steep path between the two can be harder with little kids.

Traffic: three-cheerios

It can get crowded here because it has so many intermediate level climbs.

Extra Kid Fun: four-cheerios

I think this area is a lot of fun. You start out crossing a bridge. The approach is a hike past The Pipeline, which has some difficult climbs and usually people good enough to do them. It is pretty fun to watch. Slightly farther up the path is a log crossing a small ravine. It is not super dangerous so my kids and I always like to do it. My dog will even cross it.

Here is a picture of the log.

billy-the-kid-fun-log

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

There’s the possibility of bigger slips and stumbles with your child  (if they are really small) off the upper area of Orangutan Wall or the super fun log if they get away from you and try it themselves. Though my two year old will just scooch down from the upper level on her bottom and hasn’t gotten hurt.

 

Maple Canyon: Pipeline

Maple Canyon: Pipeline

Overall:five-cheerios

This is a super cool wall where almost all the walls pull a wavy roof feature. The climbs for kids but you’ll be entertained here alld ay.

Routes: five-cheerios

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 161-166.  (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:

Time

The approach is not right next to the road, but close. With kids as young as two years old it should not take you more than 5 minutes. Its just before Billy the Kid Wall.

Difficulty

Flat groomed trail.

Danger

Not really dangerous, but a few years back our then two year old did stumble at the beginning of the hike. She tumbled down a hill that could have potentially hurt her pretty bad. She was fine, but a little shaken up.  You see those videos of miraculous dad saves on YouTube.  That wasn’t me.  I would say, not dangerous, but hold the littles hands at the beginning.

Landing:five-cheerios

Great.

Traffic:five-cheerios

It is well trafficked but there are lots of routes available so you aren’t likely to have a problem.

Extra Kid Fun: three-and-a-half-cheerios

None in particular but you do cross a bridge on the way there.

Potential Dangers: five-cheerios

Just potential for some stumbles.