Multi-pitch

September 7, 2022 Alex and Lani

Want to take your child on their first multi-pitch?

I just took my 10-year old on her first multi-pitch and it was an experience I had been looking forward to for a long time! A multi-pitch is the epitome of an adventure. Here are a few things you want to think about before heading out:

Is your climber ready? Can they climb at least a 10c in the gym and do they have experience climbing outside at the grade level of the multi-pitch? Are they still scared of getting to the top of a climb? How do they handle their fear? Can they rappel? Are they old enough to belay you? Can they clean a route?
If they cannot belay you: My 10 year old is not old enough or big enough to belay me so we did a 3-person team with her in the middle so she always climbed second and never belayed.
If they cannot rappel: Then make sure your multi-pitch has a good walk off that you are comfortable with but I recommend training them first. My 10-year old is competent at rappelling and has already done a canyoneering trip where she descended a 200 ft rappel. She did that at age 9. Weight makes a difference so probably best if they are over 60 lbs. Rappelling is an important skill so I recommend training them as soon as you can. It can also really help them with fear of heights and trusting the rope. I always make sure we have an extra rappel device with us on a multi-pitch even if we are going to walk off so we are prepared for any scenario.
Where should we go?: Mountain project has a route finder search option when you click on an area where you can filter for type, grade and number of pitches. I did a search in all of Utah for a climb that was at least 3 pitches and 5.9 or under. There were a number of options – some great ones in Maple. I picked one that was close to me and where every pitch was UNDER 115 feet because it was a 3-person team on a 70-meter rope. We did Drivers Test, Run for Cover in Rock Canyon. The start of the first pitch had lost a large section of rock and so we climbed the first two bolts on the route to its right. I used extenders and then continued on the route as intended. It wasn’t an issue. You could also climb the route as it is but I was worried my 10 year old wouldn’t be able to do the first moves. This has a walk off option but we rappelled so I can’t speak to how the walk off is. Pitch 2 was my favorite but my daughters least favorite because of the overhung sections. It was a complete success!

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I recommend a short and easy three-pitch for their first and a 3 person team so you can have another adult present. These are the dynamics you need to keep in mind for the three-person climb: (1) An adult will be tied into each end of the rope using an eight knot. The child will be tied into the middle of the rope using an eight knot on a biner. You will never untie, move, or change this order. (2) One adult will belay the other as they lead the first route. (3) The leader is an adult who will belay the middle climber (child) from above. The leader will also belay the last climber, another adult, from above. (4) The adults can switch leading but the child will always remain in the middle. (5) You cannot do a climb over 100ft on a 60 meter rope or 115 ft on a 70 meter rope. Also, keep in mind you are going to need a few feet to work with at the anchors and belay station. Do not make this mistake, its very important or you won’t have enough rope. Remember your child is at that middle mark.

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Fast Food Joint

May 21, 2018 Alex and Lani

Overall:

33099095_10156929524393268_9081945957867716608_n Fast Food Joint is located right next to the road with a small creek between the crag and the road. Its not well known so there is almost never anyone there. Its a great place to take beginners or kids if you don’t want to fight for a spot at the School Room. There aren’t any hard routes, the most difficult being a 5.10b.

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners. Doug, who owns that land, has been really kind to climbers over years and cares a lot about the area.

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Routes:

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes range from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try on. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. In that case, you will not want to climb that route. We were just there (May 2018 and August 2018) and it was completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness, see Tips for Ages Under 4.

Our 6 year old, 5 year old and 4 year old all topped out on the 5.6 Roadside Coulier and our other kids wen up the easier scrambling start of it. Those kids also topped out on the 5.5 to its left. Then our 4 year old was the only one to make it up the 5.7 Bacon, Bacon, Bacon. We were proud of her for doing it but it was a boring belay… she stopped every two moves to yell ‘Chalk Power’ and chalk up her hands more, then howl for wolf power and demand that the belayer howl, demand that other people knowledge her progress, giggle and shake her booty and then proceed….

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

This area is NOT included in the Maple Canyon guidebook.

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Approach:

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

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Landing:

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area. It could be an issue for a young baby just learning to walk but a play pen would fit in certain spots of the area.

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Traffic:

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun:

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

Potential Dangers:

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. Kids can drown in almost no water. If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area.

Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock and so you will have to decide how you want to mitigate the risk of loose rock fall.

Fast Food Joint

May 21, 2018 Alex and Lani

Overall:

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners.

Routes:

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes ranges from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. We were just there (May 2018) and it was completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness , see Tips for Ages Under 4.

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

Approach:

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

Landing:

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area and a baby just learning to walk could have issues. A play pen or something similar is likely to fit.

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Traffic:

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun:

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

Potential Dangers:

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers in that area. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. A child can drown in almost no water.

If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area.

Remember Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock so take the necessary precautions to prevent loose rock fall.

The Wave Wall

July 8, 2017 Alex and Lani

Overall:

Its on the road which can be very dangerous for toddlers but perhaps doable for an infant or older kid. There are no kid climbs.

Routes:

There are only a few routes here.

You can read more about the area at Mountain Project

Approach:

None.

Landing:

Flat but no room to run and play around because of the busy canyon road.

Climbing season is here!

March 14, 2017 Alex and Lani

My family has had fun gym-climbing this winter but its time to move outdoors! Start thinking about family climbing trips and checkout our ‘Comprehensive Guide to Climbing with Kids.’ We provide information about climbing areas that would be of interest to parents – rating them from 1 to 5. We include information that is hard to find elsewhere but particularly useful to parents – such as potential dangers or difficulties in taking a kid to that area or extra fun that they might have there. We want you be informed before you take your next trip so it doesn’t end up going wrong. The site also has gear reviews and climbing tips for families.

Log Canyon

September 24, 2016 Alex and Lani

Close to Maple Canyon, it is the less frequented and less developed area. The rock there is not as absurdly amazing as is Maple rock, but if it were a canyon far from Maple Canyon it would be a very popular destination. The camping here is free, but undeveloped so be prepared to dig a few holes. There are two developed areas but they have some fun climbs. And though it is not very developed, the canyon houses one of the best kids’ routes in the state. This canyon is worth a visit at least once, if not more. This page does not follow the typical format because the area is so undeveloped.

School House Rock –

Overall:

This is a fantastic area for beginners and most definitely children. In fact, it arguably has one of the best kid climbs I have ever seen. If you are looking for a place for your first lead or your kids first lead, this is the place.

This is a picture of a four year old feeling pretty proud of herself at the bottom of the climb.

Routes:

__, 5.0,might be the best kid climb in Utah. From its anchors 100 ft up, our 4 year old yelled, “this is a good kid climb”. That’s saying something.

There are other easy climbs in this area and a few intermediate 5.10 climbs to keep the adults entertained as well. The 10s felt a little stiff when I climbed them, but all the hard stuff is at the bottom as in just the first few moves) and then it mellows out significantly for the length of the climb. That said, the hard stuff was pretty fun.

You can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Nothing yet from Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guidebook pgs. _____ (Fill this out!)

Approach:

Zero approach. None. You can belay from your car.

Landing:

Large, perfect, and flat.

Traffic:

We saw two cars and they weren’t climbers the entire day we were there. There were no other climbers the two days we camped there.

Potential Dangers:

You are right next to the road so you need to watch your kids and make sure they are safe when any possible cars come by.

Other Activities:

Camping:

There are lots of sites the entire way up the canyon. Two spots are maybe a two-minutes walk to School House Rock. The camping is free and the sites are beautiful but they only have a fire pit. No bathrooms or water in the canyon.

Cows:

Are kids loved having cows pass by the crag and campsite. I don’t know if they are normally there or not or if it was a freak accident that they got out.

Four-wheeling:

There is a 34-mile ATV trail loop. It ends in Maple Canyon. We saw quite a bit of families on these, You can read more about it here.

Dirt Bike:

Difficulty: 1 out of 5. 20+ miles. The elevation changes from 6200 to 9800. 20160912_173713

Scenic Drive:

You can follow the dirt road to the top of the canyon which is gorgeous. If you take a left at the fork at the top you can make it all the way to the top of Maple but the road will be pretty gnarly, 4X4 is a must.

See this Canyon on our Map

Rock Canyon: The Kitchen

September 22, 2016 Alex and Lani

Overall:

Its a high frequented area that is fun to try but I wouldn’t consider it a repeat. There is a 5.4 that you could lead TR or set up top roped for your child but that would be the only kid friendly climb and you are going to need to set up a 15-18 ft extension off the anchors.

Routes:

There are a lot of trad routes here but there isn’t a lot of variety and the holds are pretty greased up nowadays. You can top rope basically all of the climbs as well.

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

A note for finding beta on the area – Provo is full of college kids that are cheap on money, but whenever they aren’t studying, rich with time. The Mountain Project as a wiki is the best beta I can find for the canyon, even beyond a guide book. A lot of climbing areas are difficult to navigate simply by using Mountain Project, but Rock Canyon has good information.

Approach:

Time

You are not going to get a better approach in Rock Canyon but it will still take you some time depending on the age of your kids. Maybe 15 minutes.

Difficulty

Any age can do it, just some slower than others. Normal, slightly inclined, trail.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing:

Perfect.

Traffic:

There are often climbers there. Its one of the more frequented spots, probably because of the access but also because of the TR climbs available as well as the fact that you can top rope the climbs.

Extra Kid Fun:

Nothing extra fun for the kids at this spot.

Potential Dangers:

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Rock Canyon: The Job Site

September 22, 2016 Alex and Lani

Overall:

This area does have a large variety of climbs for really everybody but they aren’t really all in the same area. They are spread out. So if you want you kids to climb the 5.4 you really only have a 5.7 and 5.8 right next to you.

Routes:

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Approach:

Time

It is one of the closer areas, like the kitchen, in Rock Canyon. It will probably take 15 minutes depending on your kids.

Difficulty

Moving off the main trail towards the crag is more steep and might require holding your kids hand and helping them.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing:

Traffic:

You are likely to get the route you want.

Extra Kid Fun:

There is a very small cave nearby that you will see as you hiking up there. It can be a fun detour for the kids to see. I’m sure they will ask. But thats on the walk and not at the crag.

Potential Dangers:

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Maple Canyon: Rock Island

September 22, 2016 Alex and Lani

Overall:

The convenience of this area is amazing. Its perfect for if you little one fell asleep in the car because you basically can belay from a few feet away, just leave the windows down or doors open.

Routes:

The routes here are on the lamer side. Short and not super interesting but there is a variety of intermediate climbing or warm-ups for an adult.

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book. Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:

It can’t be beat. No approach. Just park and you are there.

Landing:

Perfect level ground.

Traffic:

These routes are not high in demand so if you are looking for convenience this is the spot.

Extra Kid Fun:

Nothing extra fun here.

Potential Dangers:

Only the road. Since this is farther up in the campground area you won’t have cars zooming past and not many driving up there as it is but still watch your kids because we don’t want any accidents.

Maple Canyon: The Orangutan Wall

September 22, 2016 Alex and Lani

Overall:

The Schoolroom is a great destination for climbing with kids. Honestly, one of the best. There are climbs for kids, beginners and adults. The landing is perfect, and it is easy to get to. It can get busy here, but every time I have come to this area, there are always climbs available. If you have kids and want to get them on a wall, this area should be at the top of your list.

Routes:

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book. Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:

Time

This is just past Billy the Kid Wall and won’t take more than 10 minutes even with the tiniest.

Difficulty

Flat and level trail.

Danger

Not really dangerous, but a few years back our then two year old did stumble at the beginning of the hike. She tumbled down a hill that could have potentially hurt her pretty bad. She was fine, but a little shaken up. You see those videos of miraculous dad saves on YouTube. That wasn’t me. I would say, not dangerous, but hold the littles hands at the beginning.

Landing:

There is an upper and lower section of the Orangutan Wall. The upper section is a few feet higher than the lower on a sort of island that can be steep to get up. While the landing is great in the upper area and great in the lower area the fact that there are two with a steep path between the two can be harder with little kids.

Traffic:

It can get crowded here because it has so many intermediate level climbs.

Extra Kid Fun:

I think this area is a lot of fun. You start out crossing a bridge. The approach is a hike past The Pipeline, which has some difficult climbs and usually people good enough to do them. It is pretty fun to watch. Slightly farther up the path is a log crossing a small ravine. It is not super dangerous so my kids and I always like to do it. My dog will even cross it.

Here is a picture of the log.

billy-the-kid-fun-log

Potential Dangers:

There’s the possibility of bigger slips and stumbles with your child (if they are really small) off the upper area of Orangutan Wall or the super fun log if they get away from you and try it themselves. Though my two year old will just scooch down from the upper level on her bottom and hasn’t gotten hurt.