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Multi-pitch

Multi-pitch

Want to take your child on their first multi-pitch?

I just took my 10-year old on her first multi-pitch  and it was an experience I had been looking forward to for a long time! A multi-pitch is the epitome of an adventure. Here are a few things you want to think about before heading out:

  1. Is your climber ready? Can they climb at least a 10c in the gym and do they have experience climbing outside at the grade level of the multi-pitch? Are they still scared of getting to the top of a climb? How do they handle their fear? Can they rappel? Are they old enough to belay you? Can they clean a route?
  2. If they cannot belay you: My 10 year old is not old enough or big enough to belay me so we did a 3-person team with her in the middle so she always climbed second and never belayed.
  3. If  they cannot rappel: Then make sure your multi-pitch has a good walk off that you are comfortable with but I recommend training them first. My 10-year old is competent at rappelling and has already done a canyoneering trip where she descended a 200 ft rappel. She did that at age 9. Weight makes a difference so probably best if they are over 60 lbs. Rappelling is an important skill so I recommend training them as soon as you can. It can also really help them with fear of heights and trusting the rope. I always make sure we have an extra rappel device with us on a multi-pitch even if we are going to walk off so we are prepared for any scenario.
  4. Where should we go?: Mountain project has a route finder search option when you click on an area where you can filter for type, grade and number of pitches. I did a search in all of Utah for a climb that was at least 3 pitches and 5.9 or under. There were a number of options – some great ones in Maple. I picked one that was close to me and where every pitch was UNDER 115 feet because it was a 3-person team on a 70-meter rope. We did Drivers Test, Run for Cover in Rock Canyon. The start of the first pitch had lost a large section of rock and so we climbed the first two bolts on the route to its right. I used extenders and then continued on the route as intended. It wasn’t an issue. You could also climb the route as it is but I was worried my 10 year old wouldn’t be able to do the first moves. This has a walk off option but we rappelled so I can’t speak to how the walk off is. Pitch 2 was my favorite but my daughters least favorite because of the overhung sections. It was a complete success!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I recommend a short and easy three-pitch for their first and a 3 person team so you can have another adult present. These are the dynamics you need to keep in mind for the three-person climb: (1) An adult will be tied into each end of the rope using an eight knot. The child will be tied into the middle of the rope using an eight knot on a biner. You will never untie, move, or change this order. (2) One adult will belay the other as they lead the first route. (3) The leader is an adult who will belay the middle climber (child) from above. The leader will also belay the last climber, another adult, from above. (4) The adults can switch leading but the child will always remain in the middle. (5) You cannot do a climb over 100ft on a 60 meter rope or 115 ft on a 70 meter rope. Also, keep in mind you are going to need a few feet to work with at the anchors and belay station. Do not make this mistake, its very important or you won’t have enough rope. Remember your child is at that middle mark.

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Fast Food Joint

Fast Food Joint

Overall:four-and-a-half-cheerios

33099095_10156929524393268_9081945957867716608_nFast Food Joint is located right next to the road with a small creek between the crag and the road. Its not well known so there is almost never anyone there. Its a great place to take beginners or kids if you don’t want to fight for a spot at the School Room. There aren’t any hard routes, the most difficult being a 5.10b.

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners. Doug, who owns that land, has been really kind to climbers over years and cares a lot about the area.

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Routes: four-cheerios

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes range from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try on. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. In that case, you will not want to climb that route. We were just there (May 2018 and August 2018) and it was  completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness, see Tips for Ages Under 4.

Our 6 year old, 5 year old and 4 year old all topped out on the 5.6 Roadside Coulier and our other kids wen up the easier scrambling start of it. Those kids also topped out on the 5.5 to its left. Then our 4 year old was the only one to make it up the 5.7 Bacon, Bacon, Bacon. We were proud of her for doing it but it was a boring belay… she stopped every two moves to yell ‘Chalk Power’ and chalk up her hands more, then howl for wolf power and demand that the belayer howl, demand that other people knowledge her progress, giggle and shake her booty and then proceed….

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

This area is NOT included in the Maple Canyon guidebook.

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 Approach: five-cheerios

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

33156247_10156929524533268_4561801948969304064_n

Landing: four-and-a-half-cheerios

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area. It could be an issue for a young baby just learning to walk but a play pen would fit in certain spots of the area.

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 39735799_10157190709513268_4050329338959101952_n 39752079_10157190708198268_8320182294732079104_n

Traffic: five-cheerios

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun: five-cheerios

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

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Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. Kids can drown in almost no water. If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area.

Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock and so you will have to decide how you want to mitigate the risk of loose rock fall.

Fast Food Joint

Fast Food Joint

 

Overall: four-and-a-half-cheerios

33099095_10156929524393268_9081945957867716608_nFast Food Joint is located right next to the road with a small creek between the crag and the road. Its not well known so there is almost never anyone there. Its a great place to take beginners or kids if you don’t want to fight for a spot at the School Room. There aren’t any hard routes, the most difficult being a 5.10b.

This area is after Box Canyon but before the Frontera and is NOT in the guidebook. It is on private property, like Box Canyon, so please be courteous in keeping the area clean for the owners. 

Routes: four-cheerios

There are 16 Sport routes in this area. However, all are pretty easy so this is a great place to take kids of all ages and beginners.

The routes ranges from 5.5 in difficulty to 5.10b with four 5.6’s. Once the 5.6 known as ‘Roadside Coulior’ is top-ropped, going up the middle of the coulior is a great easy 5.4 or 5.3 for really little kids to give a try. That route uses Glue-in bolts because it may have seasonal water. We were just there (May 2018) and it was completely dry. For the younger kids or first time kid climbers, we suggest using a piece of webbing or rope attached to the back of the harness , see Tips for Ages Under 4.

These routes can be found at…

The Mountain Project

112781472_medium_1494314544 112782073_medium_1494314586

 Approach: five-cheerios

33156247_10156929524533268_4561801948969304064_n

Zero approach since its right off the road. You will have to pass a small creek which you can just step over (very small) but may need to hold your toddlers hand to help them cross.

Landing: four-and-a-half-cheerios

The landing here is flat but it is not large and open. Its a small area located between the creek and the crag so you will not want to fit a lot of people in the area and a baby just learning to walk could have issues. A play pen or something similar is likely to fit.

33020276_10156929524428268_7638657408188809216_n 33060365_10156929524493268_2165365387854610432_n   

Traffic: five-cheerios

It is not well known and not in the guidebook so there are good chances its open!

Extra Kid Fun: five-cheerios

In the heat of the summer, the shade and the creek are tons of fun for kids. Make sure you keep an eye on your kiddos and are ok with them getting wet.

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

The creek, the road, and rock fall are the potential dangers in that area. The creek basically mitigates the road risk but can be a risk itself depending on the age of your kiddos. A child can drown in almost no water.

If you set boundaries and have un-roped attentive adult, it should be a fun safe area. 

Remember Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock so take the necessary precautions to prevent loose rock fall.

 

 

The Wave Wall

The Wave Wall

Overall: three-and-a-half-cheerios

Its on the road which can be very dangerous for toddlers but perhaps doable for an infant or older kid. There are no kid climbs.

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Routes: two-and-a-half-cheerios

There are only a few routes here.

You can read more about the area at Mountain Project

 Approach: five-cheerios

None.

Landing: five-cheerios

Flat but no room to run and play around because of the busy canyon road.

Climbing season is here!

Climbing season is here!

My family has had fun gym-climbing this winter but its time to move outdoors! Start thinking about family climbing trips and checkout our ‘Comprehensive Guide to Climbing with Kids.’ We provide information about climbing areas that would be of interest to parents – rating them from 1 to 5. We include information that is hard to find elsewhere but particularly useful to parents – such as potential dangers or difficulties in taking a kid to that area or extra fun that they might have there. We want you be informed before you take your next trip so it doesn’t end up going wrong. The site also has gear reviews and climbing tips for families.