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Log Canyon

Log Canyon

Close to Maple Canyon, it is the less frequented and less developed area.  The rock there is not as absurdly amazing as is Maple rock, but if it were a canyon far from Maple Canyon it would be a very popular destination.  The camping here is free, but undeveloped so be prepared to dig a few holes.  There are two developed areas but they have some fun climbs.  And though it is not very developed, the canyon houses one of the best kids’ routes in the state.  This canyon is worth a visit at least once, if not more.  This page does not follow the typical format because the area is so undeveloped.

School House Rock –

Overall: four-cheerios

This is a fantastic area for beginners and most definitely children. In fact, it arguably has one of the best kid climbs I have ever seen. If you are looking for a place for your first lead or your kids first lead, this is the place.

This is a picture of a four year old feeling pretty proud of herself at the bottom of the climb.

Routes:four-cheerios

__, 5.0,might be the best kid climb in Utah. From its anchors 100 ft up, our 4 year old yelled, “this is a good kid climb”. That’s saying something.

There are other easy climbs in this area and a few intermediate 5.10 climbs to keep the adults entertained as well. The 10s felt a little stiff when I climbed them, but all the hard stuff is at the bottom as in just the first few moves) and then it mellows out significantly for the length of the climb.  That said, the hard stuff was pretty fun.

You can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Nothing yet from Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guidebook pgs. _____ (Fill this out!)

Approach:five-cheerios

Zero approach. None. You can belay from your car.

Landing:five-cheerios

Large, perfect, and flat.

Traffic:five-cheerios

We saw two cars and they weren’t climbers the entire day we were there. There were no other climbers the two days we camped there.

Potential Dangers:four-cheerios

You are right next to the road so you need to watch your kids and make sure they are safe when any possible cars come by.

Other Activities:four-cheerios

Camping:

There are lots of sites the entire way up the canyon. Two spots are maybe a two-minutes walk to School House Rock. The camping is free and the sites are beautiful but they only have a fire pit. No bathrooms or water in the canyon.

Cows:20160912_122649

Are kids loved having cows pass by the crag and campsite. I don’t know if they are normally there or not or if it was a freak accident that they got out.

Four-wheeling:

There is a 34-mile ATV trail loop. It ends in Maple Canyon. We saw quite a bit of families on these, You can read more about it here.

Dirt Bike:

Difficulty: 1 out of 5. 20+ miles. The elevation changes from 6200 to 9800.20160912_173713

Scenic Drive:

You can follow the dirt road to the top of the canyon which is gorgeous. If you take a left at the fork at the top you can make it all the way to the top of Maple but the road will be pretty gnarly, 4X4 is a must.

See this Canyon on our Map

 

Rock Canyon: The Kitchen

Rock Canyon: The Kitchen

Overall:three-and-a-half-cheerios

Its a high frequented area that is fun to try but I wouldn’t consider it a repeat. There is a 5.4 that you could lead TR or set up top roped for your child but that would be the only kid friendly climb and you are going to need to set up a 15-18 ft extension off the anchors.

Routes: three-cheerios

There are a lot of trad routes here but there isn’t a lot of variety and the holds are pretty greased up nowadays. You can top rope basically all of the climbs as well.

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

A note for finding beta on the area – Provo is full of college kids that are cheap on money, but whenever they aren’t studying, rich with time. The Mountain Project as a wiki is the best beta I can find for the canyon, even beyond a guide book. A lot of climbing areas are difficult to navigate simply by using Mountain Project, but Rock Canyon has good information.

Approach: four-cheerios

Time

You are not going to get a better approach in Rock Canyon but it will still take you some time depending on the age of your kids. Maybe 15 minutes.

Difficulty

Any age can do it, just some slower than others. Normal, slightly inclined, trail.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing:five-cheerios

Perfect.

Traffic:three-cheerios

There are often climbers there. Its one of the more frequented spots, probably because of the access but also because of the TR climbs available as well as the fact that you can top rope the climbs.

Extra Kid Fun:three-cheerios

Nothing extra fun for the kids at this spot.

Potential Dangers:five-cheerios

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Rock Canyon: The Job Site

Rock Canyon: The Job Site

Overall:four-cheerios

This area does have a large variety of climbs for really everybody but they aren’t really all in the same area. They are spread out. So if you want you kids to climb the 5.4 you really only have a 5.7 and 5.8 right next to you.

Routes:five-cheerios

You can find information about this area at:

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

A note for finding beta on the area – Provo is full of college kids that are cheap on money, but whenever they aren’t studying, rich with time. The Mountain Project as a wiki is the best beta I can find for the canyon, even beyond a guide book. A lot of climbing areas are difficult to navigate simply by using Mountain Project, but Rock Canyon has good information.

Approach: three-and-a-half-cheerios

Time

It is one of the closer areas, like the kitchen, in Rock Canyon. It will probably take 15 minutes depending on your kids.

Difficulty

Moving off the main trail towards the crag is more steep and might require holding your kids hand and helping them.

Danger

No danger except normal hiking danger.

Landing: four-cheerios

Traffic:four-and-a-half-cheerios

You are likely to get the route you want.

Extra Kid Fun:four-cheerios

There is a very small cave nearby that you will see as you hiking up there. It can be a fun detour for the kids to see. I’m sure they will ask. But thats on the walk and not at the crag.

Potential Dangers:five-cheerios

Only dangers here are typical hiking dangers.

Maple Canyon: Rock Island

Maple Canyon: Rock Island

Overall:four-cheerios

The convenience of this area is amazing. Its perfect for if you little one fell asleep in the car because you basically can belay from a few feet away, just leave the windows down or doors open.

Routes: three-and-a-half-cheerios

The routes here are on the lamer side. Short and not super interesting but there is a variety of intermediate climbing or warm-ups for an adult.

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:five-cheerios

It can’t be beat. No approach. Just park and you are there.

Landing:five-cheerios

Perfect level ground.

Traffic:five-cheerios

These routes are not high in demand so if you are looking for convenience this is the spot.

Extra Kid Fun: three-cheerios

Nothing extra fun here.

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

Only the road. Since this is farther up in the campground area you won’t have cars zooming past and not many driving up there as it is but still watch your kids because we don’t want any accidents.

Maple Canyon: The Orangutan Wall

Maple Canyon: The Orangutan Wall

Overall:four-cheerios

The Schoolroom is a great destination for climbing with kids.  Honestly, one of the best.  There are climbs for kids, beginners and adults.  The landing is perfect, and it is easy to get to.  It can get busy here, but every time I have come to this area, there are always climbs available.  If you have kids and want to get them on a wall, this area should be at the top of your list.

Routes: five-cheerios

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 175-175 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach: 

Time

This is just past Billy the Kid Wall and won’t take more than 10 minutes even with the tiniest.

Difficulty

Flat and level trail.

Danger

Not really dangerous, but a few years back our then two year old did stumble at the beginning of the hike. She tumbled down a hill that could have potentially hurt her pretty bad. She was fine, but a little shaken up.  You see those videos of miraculous dad saves on YouTube.  That wasn’t me.  I would say, not dangerous, but hold the littles hands at the beginning.

Landing: three-and-a-half-cheerios

There is an upper and lower section of the Orangutan Wall. The upper section is a few feet higher than the lower on a sort of island that can be steep to get up. While the landing is great in the upper area and great in the lower area the fact that there are two with a steep path between the two can be harder with little kids.

Traffic: three-cheerios

It can get crowded here because it has so many intermediate level climbs.

Extra Kid Fun: four-cheerios

I think this area is a lot of fun. You start out crossing a bridge. The approach is a hike past The Pipeline, which has some difficult climbs and usually people good enough to do them. It is pretty fun to watch. Slightly farther up the path is a log crossing a small ravine. It is not super dangerous so my kids and I always like to do it. My dog will even cross it.

Here is a picture of the log.

billy-the-kid-fun-log

Potential Dangers: four-cheerios

There’s the possibility of bigger slips and stumbles with your child  (if they are really small) off the upper area of Orangutan Wall or the super fun log if they get away from you and try it themselves. Though my two year old will just scooch down from the upper level on her bottom and hasn’t gotten hurt.

 

Maple Canyon: Pipeline

Maple Canyon: Pipeline

Overall:five-cheerios

This is a super cool wall where almost all the walls pull a wavy roof feature. The climbs for kids but you’ll be entertained here alld ay.

Routes: five-cheerios

We aren’t interested in duplicating effort, so you can find information about this area at…

The Mountain Project

Maple Canyon Guide book Pg. 161-166.  (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:

Time

The approach is not right next to the road, but close. With kids as young as two years old it should not take you more than 5 minutes. Its just before Billy the Kid Wall.

Difficulty

Flat groomed trail.

Danger

Not really dangerous, but a few years back our then two year old did stumble at the beginning of the hike. She tumbled down a hill that could have potentially hurt her pretty bad. She was fine, but a little shaken up.  You see those videos of miraculous dad saves on YouTube.  That wasn’t me.  I would say, not dangerous, but hold the littles hands at the beginning.

Landing:five-cheerios

Great.

Traffic:five-cheerios

It is well trafficked but there are lots of routes available so you aren’t likely to have a problem.

Extra Kid Fun: three-and-a-half-cheerios

None in particular but you do cross a bridge on the way there.

Potential Dangers: five-cheerios

Just potential for some stumbles.

Maple Canyon: Box Canyon

Maple Canyon: Box Canyon

Overall (climbing for kids): three-cheerios

This is an awesome canyon with tons of additional fun things for the kids but if you want your day to be about your KIDS CLIMBING then there are better areas because there is only one kid route (5.4). Everything else is basically hard 5.10 and up. Although the beginning of some of these routes can be converted into a kid climb as well  as they are like class 4 climbing to the first bolt.

Overall (crag for adults that is safe for kids):five-cheerios

Now if the day is going to be about YOU CLIMBING and your bringing your kids a long for the adventure than this canyon is perfect. You will have an endless supply of projects and your kids will have a great place to play and explore.

Routes:

You can find information about this area at…

MountainProject.com

Rockclimbing.com

Maple Canyon Guide Book pg. 62-89 (The link is to a site where you can purchase the book.  Really, if you are going to Maple, you should have it.)

Approach:four-and-a-half-cheerios

Time

I kind of depends on which area in the canyon you are going to. You could be looking at a 2 minute approach ora 15 minute approach with kids.

Difficulty

It is a flat approach which makes it easy and kid friendly. The only problem is that its rocky so its not level and my really little kdis tend to stumble and need to hold your hand.

Danger

There are no dangers.

Landing:five-cheerios

Fantastic everywhere in this canyon.

Traffic:four-and-a-half-cheerios

Box canyon always always always has climbers but there are SO MANY areas here that you could always find a route (as long as you can climb at this grade) to get on and I’ve never seen anybody on the kids route if thats what your going for.

Extra Fun:five-cheerios

This is an awesome slot canyon to hike through with kids if you want to keep going. There are also plenty of ‘caves’ and kind of a real one to go in with your kids. Every kid I’ve taken here just LOVES exploring it.

Also, because there are always awesome climbers here it can be really fun to hunker down and watch.

Potential Dangers:five-cheerios

Your kids might be enticed in some areas to go free climbing so keep an eye out and set up some rules so they don’t get stuck anywhere.

Climbing Pregnant

Climbing Pregnant

I only became interested in the climbing sport the summer after my first was born. After that I was hooked and climbed through my two other pregnancies.

I know there are plenty of contrasting opinions in the world on the subject of climbing while pregnant especially since many in society seem to become all the more opinionated when the topic pertains to others’ pregnancy or parenting. Rest assured I care deeply about my children and their safety as well as my own body’s health and those thoughts are always at the forefront of my mind. With that being said, it is my opinion that…

ROCK CLIMBING CAN BE THE PERFECT PREGNANCY ACTIVITY.

Let me explain:

The type of climbing matters

602336_10152374233743268_1072257206_nThere are different types of climbing – lead climbing, top rope climbing, and bouldering. If you’re a climber than that’s not news to you. If you aren’t, than it ALL might seem dangerous, but its actually not. When lead climbing, you are connecting the rope to the wall as you climb and therefore may take a several-foot fall before being caught by the rope. When bouldering, you are climbing generally low to the ground without a rope, but may take a several-foot fall onto a pad on the ground. When top-rope climbing, the rope is already anchored at the top of the wall and therefore there is no risk of fall because it is pulling you up towards the anchor. However, when you need to rest or if you slip there is a stretching of the rope akin to that of you sitting down in a chair. Definitely not jarring and very slight. In fact, climbing rope is made to stretch a little so that it’s not jarring. Of course, just as you would do if you were not pregnant, only climb with a belayer that you trust and who is attentive. If I can put it into perspective for you, top-rope climbing is what children, even toddlers, do at fairs or carnivals. Pretty safe stuff.

Some women choose to keep leading or bouldering during their first trimester but simply select easier routes and grades to avoid serious falls. I have chosen to basically avoid all lead climbing and bouldering once pregnant for fear of something out of my control happening, such as a loose rock causing me to slip and fall. I exclusively top-rope climb while pregnant and have felt perfectly safe in doing so through two pregnancies.

Climbing is low impact

You can burn tons of calories while rock climbing and it is great weight training and unlike many other sports that have these same fitness benefits, its low impact! It provides the cardio and strength exercise without strain on your bones and joints. That’s why it’s considered a lifetime sport that can be enjoyed by those in their later years as well.

The farther along in my pregnancy, the lower my grade gets. That’s just the truth. I was rocking top-roped 13s (indoor) during my first trimester this last pregnancy, but was stuck in the 11s and 10s at the end of my pregnancy. I don’t climb the same way when I’m pregnant, I don’t push my body the same way. Like I said before, I try to listen to what my body is telling me. When I’m climbing below my ability in this way, it honestly feels more like a stretching activity than anything else.

I need some type of exertion and some ME time while pregnant. Climbing has given me that. It’s relaxing. I haven’t been able to continue other sports in the same way. For this reason, I’ve climbed while full-term and just three days before going into labor and felt great doing so. I also felt so fantastic (remember your recovery is generally quicker for your later pregnancies – I’m not some kind of medical marvel) that I climbed maybe a week after that. It never caused any contractions or strains that other physical activities did for me.

If you want more than just my personal experience, a famous climber, Beth Rodden, created a survey with the help of two doctors that she knew. 339 pregnant climbing women responded to that survey. Some of the findings were published in an article in Rock and Ice, Climber’s Magazine in Sep 2017 (“What to Expect when Expecting – Rock Climbing While Pregnant” by Beth Rodden.) There has been a lot of talk about this article recently because it has very interesting findings. However, something that I wished it showed was the distribution of some of the answers and not just the average. At 20 weeks, most of the women in the study started to limit their climbing and most stopped completely at 31 weeks.  Were there any women who climbed to term, and if so, how many? I know that I did. That’s 1 person. Also, I would have liked to read what the description of ‘limiting’ their climbing entailed for these different women. There were only 6% who sustained some type of injury while climbing. Disappointingly, the study does not describe to us what type of injuries these may be. Climbing injuries vs. pregnancy injuries are vastly different. However, it does show basically none of these women having miscarried and those experiencing severe bleeding was also below the national average, though that could be because those having experienced such problems did not do the survey. In regards to climbing injuries, joints loosen during a women’s pregnancy in preparation for child birth and so this can be the likely culprit. Please be wary and do not overdo it. Joint and ligament strains can be a common climbing injury. You don’t want to have to recover from a climbing injury and childbirth at the same time! I injured a joint a few months ago climbing and I wasn’t even pregnant!  For these 339 women, it took an average of 3 1/2 months for them to return to climbing after having their baby. On a side note, I competed against a woman in a bouldering competition earlier this year who had an infant about 8-9 months old and she won first place! That’s right… she beat me, not to mention everyone else there too, and my youngest was maybe 18 months at the time. From the survey, 96% of the women breastfed and 7% of those saw a change in their milk volume when they returned to climbing.  I’m going to assume that meant a negative change, but the results do not actually specify. On that point, I noticed that the 1st place competitor that I mentioned nursed during the competition! Yeah, she was pretty awesome. It also reminded me of having to pump a few times while I was on a 22-pitch sport climb that I did with my husband 8 months post-partum. It was an awesome adventure. I was lucky to not have my milk supply negatively affected, lucky to have a grandma willing to babysit an infant for the day, and lucky that my baby was willing to drink milk from the bottle. 

So ladies, every body is different. Listen to your own body and do what you love!

Use a pregnancy harness

How you feel will vary at each stage of the pregnancy. One rule of thumb for me while I’m pregnant is to listen to my body. That’s how I know how often to eat, what to eat, what not to do and what’s ok. I switch to a full-body harness when I feel like I should. If my normal harness isn’t comfortable then I should definitely be in the full-body harness. That usually happens for me about when I start my second trimester. I have used the Mountain Mama/Mad Rock harness for two pregnancies. Click here for a review of the product.

Talk to your OBGYN or not

Of course10307197_374232319451070_5017911229173282785_n it is important to talk to your OBGYN and go to them with any questions or concerns that you have. I want to clarify that I am not claiming to know more than someone with years of specialized education and years of professional experience in that field. However, it appears to me that most OBGYNs have zero experience with climbing and therefore the above discussion on different types of climbing is completely lost on them.

With my second pregnancy, I remember attempting to discuss climbing with a nurse at my OBGYN in an attempt to get some type of verbal approval of the activity. There was none. She told me “absolutely not, under no circumstances, is any type of climbing ok while pregnant because there is risk of fall.” I tried to explain that there was no risk of fall with top-rope climbing but my explanation was lost on her. After that conversation I was a little emotional, which I blame on my pregnancy hormones, if I must admit.

My friend’s OBGYN, at the very same clinic, told her that she was cleared to top-rope climb as it was an activity her body was already use to do doing and carried no risk of fall.

Go figure.

I chose not to talk to my new OBGYN during my next pregnancy about it to avoid an emotional and judgmental conversation that I felt was unfounded… I know *gasp*

Let me state it again:

ROCK CLIMBING CAN BE THE PERFECT PREGNANCY ACTIVITY.

If you’re wondering whether or not you can continue to climb now that your expecting or if there are any sports or exercises you can do as your tummy grows, consider rock climbing. You are not the first or only woman to have these questions and you won’t be the only one out there pregnant at the crag. There are more and more climbing mommas out there.

It has been the best low-impact exercise for me while pregnant. It helped me feel fit, stay healthy and relax. Staying in shape helped me emotionally and also helped my body bounce back quicker after pregnancy.